Perennials
vs. Annuals
By: Ed Jensen
Perennials
or annuals? Each plant type has benefits depending on how
you plan to use them and how much time you want to commit
to their maintenance. Ultimately, you will have to balance
the maintenance with the aesthetics. This article is intended
to provide you with some guidance on the relative merits of
each option.
Annuals
are plants that typically get changed twice per year. Examples
of summer annuals are Begonias, Petunias and Marigolds, which
are planted in April or May. An example of fall annuals is
Pansies, which are planted in October/ November. Some benefits
of annuals are a fresh look twice per year and numerous color
choices. The negatives would include the recurring labor to
re-plant, cost to purchase, and time involved to water, deadhead,
and provide insect and disease control.
Use
annuals for interest and curb appeal in smaller beds by your
front door, patio, or by your mailbox, which could be considered
primary locations. By
grouping them you will simplify maintenance, especially their
watering. These bright accent beds balanced with the cycling
change of perennials in your landscape can create a beautiful
picture with only a modest amount of effort.
Perennials
become a permanent part of your landscape requiring change
only when their environment changes, for example, if a small
tree matures and creates a shaded area over an existing perennial
bed. Examples of perennials include Daylilies, Daisies, Sedum,
Coneflower, and bulbs such as Daffodils. Some benefits of
perennials are hardiness, drought tolerance, different bloom
periods to extend color in the landscape, and foliage texture
that provides added interest. The negatives would be in winter
when foliage is gone, and a short bloom period compared to
annuals.
In
today's hectic family lifestyle where weekend time is at a
premium and yardwork is considered a chore, a great way to
combine the best of both worlds is to use perennials in beds
where they can fill in over a period of time yet not detract
from the landscape when they are past their peak. I call these
areas secondary. When
perennials are leafed out and in color they look great, and
during their downtime they do not draw attention. In the spring
as the new foliage emerges and matures to the flowering stage,
perennials look their best. In the middle of the summer they
can look tired and in the fall they continue to decline as
cooler temperatures and frost arrive.
What
are some favorites of mine?
Annuals.
For shaded moist areas, Impatiens. Numerous color choices
and combinations are possible. For sunny beds try Petunias.
These also have numerous color choices and possible combinations
and do not require excessive maintenance like deadheading
and watering. Find the "Wave" series of Petunia,
which spreads quickly and does not have downtime in the late
summer.
Perennials.
For moist shaded areas, Creeping Jenny. This spreading perennial
grows flat to the ground and the foliage is bright yellow.
Japanese Anemone is a taller perennial that does not require
a lot of care, 24" tall, pink or white fall flower, and
Maple leaf-type foliage. For sunny beds Daylilies and Shasta
Daisies perform well and, with a midsummer pruning, you can
add a second bloom period for the late summer.
There
are numerous books, web sites and retailers that can provide
detailed information about perennials and annuals. OLM's recommendation
is to visit and utilize your local garden center. Their staff
can steer you to the options that are best suited to your
needs as well as provide landscape designs, and quite often
offer a guarantee against plant loss. Just as important, you
can actually see the plant and decide if the plant will work
in your yard.
Do
you have questions about annuals and/or perennials in your
landscape either at home or at work? Call OLM and we will
be glad to assist!
|
Of all the wonders of nature, a tree in summer is perhaps
the most remarkable; with the possible exception of a moose
singing "Embraceable You" in spats. --Woody Allen
WHAT'S
THAT BROWN IN MY GRASS?
By: Ron Alexander
Be
on the lookout for Brown Patch disease (Rhizoctonia) in Fescue
lawns. Due to record amounts of rainfall and high humidity,
this turf disease has been especially prevalent this season.
Is
It Brown Patch?
The onset of Brown Patch may first appear to be moisture stress
because of the purplish-gray tint to the leaf blade. The affected
areas quickly fade to light brown as the leaf withers and
will most likely occur in distinct "patches" in
the lawn. Light brown lesions with dark borders will appear
on the individual leaf blade.
Conditions
Favoring Brown Patch
- Daytime temperatures in the mid 80`s or higher
- Nighttime
temperatures above 70 degrees
- Extended periods of leaf wetness
- High relative humidity
- High nitrogen levels
- Thatch buildup
What
Can I Do?
You
and/or your landscape contractor can prevent Brown Patch from
devastating your Fescue lawn this summer with a combination
of chemical and cultural practices.
Cultural
Management
- Apply no more than 4 lbs nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. per
year.
- Apply most nitrogen in spring and fall
- Water lawn between midnight and 6:00 AM
- Avoid
frequent irrigation in summer months
- Use a turf-type Fescue vs. K-31 type
Also,
turf fungicides such as Clearys 3336, Heritage and Daconil
will be effective in the control of Brown Patch when applied
properly. Always read and follow label directions.
Contact
OLM if you have other questions or concerns about Brown Patch
or other turf issues and we will be glad to help in any way
possible.
Coming
in August:
Just
what you've been waiting for! Starting with the August issue,
the Grapevine will have articles covering janitorial and interior
topics. Send an e-mail to newsletter@olminc.com
if you have suggestions for topics or any questions concerning
janitorial services that you would like to see covered. We
appreciate your input; look for the janitorial articles in
the August issue of The Grapevine!
Contact
us:
OLM,
Inc.
Call us: (770) 420-0900
E-mail: newsletter@olminc.com
Online: www.olminc.com
Quick
Links:
|